Working with a roofing nailer for siding can save time, reduce hand fatigue, and make the job look more professional, but it’s not without its challenges. While these tools are designed for speed and power, they can sometimes cause problems if not used correctly. One technique we’ve found especially effective for avoiding many of these issues. It is adjusting the nailer’s depth control before you even start, rather than trying to fix mistakes later. This small step can make a big difference in preventing damage and keeping siding secure. In this article, we’ll walk through the most common roofing problems you might face, explain why they happen, and show you how to fix or prevent them. By the end, you’ll know exactly how to work smarter, protect your materials, and get the results you want on the first try.

Table of Contents
Understanding How Roofing Nailers Differ from Siding Nailers
At first glance, roofing and siding nailers look similar, and both can drive nails quickly. However, roofing nailers are designed for thinner, more flexible materials, such as shingles, while siding nailers are made to handle thicker, rigid siding boards.
A roofing nailer often uses coil nails with larger heads to hold shingles in place. When used on siding, these same nails can sit too proud or too deep if the depth isn’t adjusted properly. The tool’s power output is another key difference — roofing nailers may deliver more force than siding materials can handle. You may try our service: core roofing
Using the wrong tool or settings for the job is one of the leading causes of siding problems, so knowing these differences is step one in preventing issues.
Problem 1 – Nails Going Too Deep
One of the most common problems with a roofing nailer on siding is overdriving nails. This happens when the tool’s depth setting is too high or the air pressure in your compressor is set too high.
When nails go too deep:
- They can crack or split siding boards.
- The siding may loosen over time.
- It can create small gaps for water to enter.
Fix: Lower the air pressure on your compressor and adjust the nail depth so the nail head sits flush with the siding surface — not buried beneath it. It’s worth testing on a scrap piece before working on the actual wall.
Problem 2 – Nails Not Driven Deep Enough
On the flip side, if nails are not driven far enough in, siding may not sit flat against the wall. This can lead to rattling in the wind or even panels coming loose.
This problem usually comes from low air pressure or a worn-out driver blade inside the nailer.
Fix: Increase the compressor pressure slightly and check the nailer’s driver blade for wear. If it’s damaged, replacing it will improve nail penetration and consistency.
Problem 3 – Siding Cracking or Splitting
Siding can crack for several reasons:
- Nails driven too close to the edge.
- Nails are going in at the wrong angle.
- Too much force from the nailer.
Some materials, like cedar siding, are especially prone to splitting if the nail isn’t placed properly.
Fix: Keep nails at least ¾ inch from the edge and drive them straight in. Adjusting depth and air pressure can also reduce the risk of splitting.
Problem 4 – Nail Gun Jams and Misfires
Roofing nailers can jam when nails are bent, misaligned, or when debris gets into the nail chamber. Misfires can slow you down and cause inconsistent nail placement.
Fix:
- Use quality nails designed for your nailer.
- Keep the nailer clean and lubricated.
- Check the feed mechanism regularly for wear.
A jam in the middle of a siding job can throw off your rhythm and lead to uneven results, so preventive maintenance is key.
Problem 5 – Uneven or Crooked Nailing
When nails go in at an angle, siding may warp or buckle over time. This usually happens when the nailer is held at the wrong angle or when the operator rushes.
Fix: Hold the nailer square to the siding at all times. Using a siding nailer with a guide or a depth control feature can also help keep nails consistent.
Problem 6 – Overdriving in Soft or Thin Siding
If you’re working with vinyl or engineered wood siding, overdriving nails can easily punch through or deform the material. This not only looks bad but can weaken the siding’s hold.
Fix: Lower the air pressure and use nails with the right shank size. Test settings on scrap pieces of siding before starting on the main surface.
Problem 7 – Moisture Damage from Poor Nailing
Improper nailing can leave small gaps where water can seep behind siding. Over time, this can lead to rot, mold, or even structural damage.
Fix: Make sure nails sit flush and the siding overlaps correctly. Pay attention to manufacturer installation guidelines — they’re there to protect both appearance and durability.
Safety Risks and Precautions
Roofing nailers are powerful tools, and using them on siding requires extra caution:
- Wear safety glasses to protect against flying debris.
- Keep your hands clear of the nail path.
- Disconnect the air hose before clearing jams.
Following basic safety habits not only keeps you safe but also helps avoid costly mistakes.
How to Adjust Your Nailer for Siding Work
Getting your roofing nailer set up for siding is all about control:
- Adjust the depth setting so the nails are flush with the surface.
- Set the air pressure between 70–100 PSI, depending on siding material.
- Use the right nails for siding — smaller heads for a cleaner finish.
- Test before starting to fine-tune adjustments.
Best Practices for Long-Lasting Siding Installation
- Use stainless steel or galvanized nails to resist rust.
- Maintain consistent spacing between nails.
- Avoid nailing too tightly — allow for material expansion.
- Inspect your work periodically to catch issues early.
These habits not only prevent problems during installation but also extend the life of the siding.
Final Thoughts
Using a roofing nailer for siding can work well if you understand its differences from a siding nailer and adjust accordingly. The most common problems — overdriving, underdriving, cracking, jamming, and uneven nailing — can all be avoided with the right setup, patience, and consistent technique. You should learn about commercial roof leak repair
By taking the time to set your nailer properly, using the correct nails, and following safe practices, you can avoid costly mistakes and ensure your siding looks great and lasts for years.
FAQs
Can I use a roofing nailer for vinyl siding?
You can technically use a roofing nailer on vinyl siding, but it’s not recommended. Roofing nailers drive larger, shorter nails and use more force, which can over‑drive or crack softer siding like vinyl. It’s safer to set the depth or use a siding nailer to avoid damage.
Why Choose a Siding Nailer Over a Roofing Gun?
A siding nailer is made especially for things like vinyl, wood, or fiber-cement siding. It uses longer, thinner nails and hits at the right power. A roofing nailer, even though it’s fast, can damage material or leave siding loose because it’s built for shingles, not boards.
How to adjust a roofing nailer for siding work?
To use a roofing nailer safely on siding, adjust the depth setting so nails go just flush—not too deep—and test first on a scrap board. Also, adjust air pressure (e.g., around 70–100 PSI) and pick the right nail length. That helps prevent splitting or uneven nailing
Will roofing nailer nails split siding boards?
Yes—they might split siding, especially softer materials like cedar or vinyl. Roofing nailers use more force and shorter, wider nails, which can crack or split siding boards. Keep the nail at least ¾ inch from the board edge, and avoid over-driving by adjusting depth and pressure.
Are there risks using a roofing nailer on fiber-cement?
Fiber-cement (“Hardie”) is tougher than vinyl, but a roofing nailer can still cause improper installation. It’s better to use a siding nailer for precision and correct driving depth. A siding nailer keeps things secure without damaging the material.