Is a leaking roof threatening your inventory, equipment, or tenant safety? You are not alone. Roof damage is one of the biggest headaches for commercial property owners in Atlanta, Tampa, and Orlando. But here is the good news: catching a problem early can save you thousands of dollars.
This guide will show you exactly how to identify damage, the simple steps to fix common issues, and how to know when it’s time to call a professional. We focus on results – keeping your building dry, safe, and open for business.
Table of Contents
Part 1: Is Your Commercial Roof Actually Damaged?
Before you grab a ladder, you need to know exactly what to look for. Commercial flat roofs (like TPO, EPDM, or PVC) are very different from the shingles on a home. They face unique challenges, especially in our humid, storm-prone Southern climate. If you spot any of the “Big Three” signs below, your roof needs immediate attention to prevent expensive leaks.
Ponding Water
Ponding water is defined as water that stays on your roof for more than 48 hours after a rainstorm stops. This is a serious issue because standing water acts like a magnifying glass under the sun, focusing heat and burning your roof membrane much faster than dry areas. Furthermore, water is heavy, weighing about 8 pounds per gallon. If this weight sits in one spot for too long, it causes the roof deck to sag, which creates a bowl that holds even more water, eventually threatening the structural safety of your building.
Bubbles or Blisters
If you see raised areas that look like air pockets or boils on the flat surface, you have blisters. This is a clear sign that moisture has already found a way underneath your roof membrane. The damage happens when the sun heats your roof; that trapped water turns into hot vapor and expands. This pressure pushes up against the membrane, stretching it until it eventually tears the roof apart from the inside. Ignoring a blister usually leads to a much larger rupture during the next heatwave.
Flashing Gaps
Flashing refers to the metal strips used to seal the edges of your roof and the areas around vents or AC units. You are looking for spots where this metal is pulling away from the wall or the equipment. Because metal expands in the summer heat and shrinks in the winter, this constant movement can eventually break the waterproof seal. Once a gap opens up here, it acts like a funnel, creating a direct highway for rainwater to pour right into your walls and insulation.
Part 2: Safety First (Read Before You Climb)
Commercial roofs are dangerous. Before you attempt any inspection or repair, follow these non-negotiable safety rules:
- Check the Weather: Never go on a roof if it is raining, windy, or if lightning is nearby. In Florida and Georgia, storms appear quickly – always check the radar.
- Ladder Logic: Extend your ladder at least 3 feet above the roof edge. Tie it off at the top so it doesn’t slide.
- Walk Carefully: An old roof can be brittle. Walk only on designated walkways or structural beams (joists) to avoid stepping through a soft spot.
- Know Your Limits: If the damage is wider than a dinner plate, or if you feel unsafe, stop. It is cheaper to hire a pro than to pay for a hospital visit.
How to Repair Common Roof Leaks (Step-by-Step)
Note: These steps are designed for minor repairs on flat commercial roofs like TPO or EPDM. If you find large tears (over 6 inches) or open seams, please call a certified roofer. DIY repairs on major structural damage can sometimes void your manufacturer’s warranty.
Fixing a Small Puncture or Tear
Most leaks on flat roofs are not caused by storms. They are often caused by foot traffic. HVAC technicians or maintenance crews often accidentally drop tools or step on screws. This creates small punctures that let water in. Fortunately, if you catch these early, the fix is straightforward.
Essential Tools for the Job
Before you go up, make sure you have a dedicated “Roof Repair Kit” ready. You will need:
- Cleaning supplies: A broom and a stiff scrub brush.
- Chemicals: Commercial roof cleaner (or a mild detergent like Simple Green) and the specific Primer for your roof type (TPO or EPDM).
- Repair Material: A peel-and-stick patch kit matching your roof membrane.
- Hardware: A silicone hand roller, a utility knife, and a tube of lap sealant.
Phase 1: Preparing the Damaged Area
The number one reason patches fail is a dirty surface. In humid climates, roofs develop a thin film of invisible algae or dust. This film prevents glue from sticking.
- Clean Thoroughly: Scrub the area around the puncture vigorously with your cleaner and brush. You need to remove all dirt, oxidation, and old debris. Rinse it with water and let it dry completely. Never apply a patch to a damp roof.
- Measure and Cut: While the roof dries, cut your patch material. It should be large enough to extend at least 2 inches beyond the damage in every direction.
- The “Round Corner” Trick: Never leave your patch with sharp square corners. Use your knife to round them off into a circle or oval shape. Sharp corners catch the wind and are the first part to peel up over time.
Phase 2: Installing the Patch
Once the area is bone-dry, you are ready to seal the leak.
- Apply the Primer: Scrub the primer onto the clean area using a scrubbing pad. It acts like double-sided tape. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes until it feels “tacky” to the touch. It should feel sticky, but no residue should come off on your finger.
- Place the Patch: Peel off the backing paper and carefully place the patch over the hole. Press it down effectively, but do not stretch the material. If you stretch it, the patch will try to shrink back to its original size later. This tension will pull it off the roof.
Phase 3: Rolling and Sealing
You are not finished yet. The final steps ensure the patch can survive the intense summer heat.
- Roll It Out: Using your hand roller, press down firmly on the patch. Start in the center and roll outward toward the edges. This step is critical because it forces out any trapped air bubbles. If air is left inside, the sun will heat it up. The bubble will expand and pop your new patch loose.
- Seal the Edges: Finally, apply a bead of “lap sealant” (a specific roofing caulk) around the exposed edge of the patch. This creates a final waterproof barrier that stops standing water from working its way under the patch.
Part 4: When to Call a Professional (And Why It Saves You Money)
While DIY fixes work for small holes, “band-aid” repairs on serious issues can actually void your manufacturer’s warranty.
You need a professional commercial roofer if:
- The leak is a mystery: Water travels. The stain on your ceiling might be 20 feet away from the actual hole on the roof. Professionals use infrared cameras to find the exact source of moisture.
- After a Hurricane: Storms in Tampa and Orlando can lift entire sections of roofing. This requires structural re-attachment, not just a patch.
- The insulation is wet: If the padding under your roof is wet, patching the top won’t help. The rot will continue to spread like a cancer, eventually destroying your roof deck.
The “Hidden” Benefit: Energy Savings
Did you know a repair is also a chance to upgrade? Applying a Cool Roof Coating (a white, reflective layer) during a repair can lower your roof’s surface temperature by up to 50°F.
- Result: Your AC units work less.
- Benefit: You see lower electric bills immediately.
Part 5: A Simple Maintenance Checklist for Southern Climates
Prevent expensive repairs by doing these three things every Spring and Fall:
- Clear the Drains: Clogged drains are the #1 cause of roof collapse. Remove leaves and trash from scuppers and gutters.
- Trim Trees: keep branches at least 6 feet away from your roof. This prevents rats from getting on your roof and stops branches from scrubbing the membrane during storms.
- Check AC Panels: Make sure the access doors on your rooftop AC units are closed. A blown-open door allows rain to pour directly into your building, which looks exactly like a roof leak!
Conclusion: Protect Your Investment Today
Your roof is the only thing protecting your business assets from the elements. Do not wait for a ceiling tile to fall on a customer before acting.
Need help assessing the damage?
At Core Commercial Roofing & Coating, we specialize in finding and fixing leaks that others miss. Whether you are in Lubbock or the surrounding communities, our team is ready to keep your business dry and secure. We understand the unique weather challenges of West Texas and how to reinforce your roof against them.
Click Here to Request Your Free Roof Inspection Or call us 24/7 for Emergency Repair Services.
FAQs
How long should standing water stay on a flat roof?
Water that remains on a roof for more than 48 hours is classified as ponding water and indicates a drainage failure. This standing water acts like a magnifying glass under the sun, focusing intense heat that burns through the membrane while the accumulated weight (approx. 8 lbs per gallon) causes the roof deck to sag and threatens structural safety.
What do bubbles on a commercial roof mean?
Raised blisters or bubbles on a flat roof surface are a definitive sign that moisture has penetrated beneath the membrane. As the sun heats the roof, this trapped water turns into expanding vapor which stretches the material until it ruptures; ignoring these blisters usually leads to significant tearing during heatwaves.
Why is the metal strip pulling away from my roof wall?
This issue involves the flashing, which can separate from walls or equipment due to the constant expansion and contraction caused by seasonal temperature changes. When these gaps appear, they break the waterproof seal and act like a funnel, directing rainwater straight into the building walls and insulation rather than into the drainage system.
How to properly patch a TPO roof leak?
A successful repair requires cleaning the surface of invisible algae and dust before applying a primer and a peel-and-stick patch. Core Commercial Roofing & Coatings emphasizes the Round Corner technique: always trim the patch corners into a circle or oval shape, as sharp square corners catch the wind and will eventually cause the repair to peel off.
Why do my DIY roof patches keep peeling off?
The most common cause of patch failure is stretching the material during application or applying it to a dirty surface. If the patch is stretched while being pressed down, it creates tension and will eventually shrink back to its original size, pulling itself loose; a silicone hand roller should be used to press it flat without stretching.
What does a commercial roof inspection include?
A proper assessment looks for the Big Three signs of failure: ponding water, blisters, and flashing gaps, while also checking for wet insulation beneath the surface. Core Commercial Roofing & Coatings recommends using infrared cameras to locate the exact source of moisture, as the visible ceiling stain inside is often far removed from the actual puncture on the roof.
Can I put a roof coating over wet insulation?
No, applying a patch or coating over wet insulation acts as a band-aid that traps moisture inside, allowing rot to spread through the roof deck like cancer. Core Commercial Roofing & Coatings advises that if the underlying padding is saturated, structural re-attachment or replacement is necessary to preserve the manufacturer warranty and building integrity.
Does white roof coating actually save energy?
Yes, applying a reflective Cool Roof Coating during repairs can reduce the roof surface temperature by up to 50°F. Core Commercial Roofing & Coatings notes that this reduction significantly decreases the workload on rooftop AC units, resulting in immediate and noticeable savings on electricity bills for the business.
Why is my roof leaking near the AC unit?
While flashing gaps are common, leaks near HVAC units are often caused by maintenance crews leaving access doors blown open or unlatched. Before assuming the roof membrane is torn, check that all AC panels are securely closed, as an open door allows rain to pour directly into the building, mimicking a roof leak.
What tools are needed for flat roof repair?
A professional-grade Roof Repair Kit for TPO or EPDM roofs must include a stiff scrub brush and cleaner (like Simple Green) to remove oxidation, a specific primer to create adhesion, and a silicone hand roller. The roller is critical for pushing out trapped air bubbles that would otherwise expand in the sun and pop the new patch loose.
